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#1 |
Treasure Seeker
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Device: Kobo HD Glo, Kindles, Kindle Fires, Andriod Devices
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WiFi Question
Paging PC gurus, Dennis, Kat...
How could I tell if someone was stealing my internet? My internet has been slower than molasses these past few weeks. It should be 100mbps when it's under 30mbps. Each time I reboot the modem and Router the speed comes back. Streaming live events has become near impossible. Although YouTube works fine. ![]() I downloaded an app on tablet that shows connected devices. All I recognize. Could someone be on without being listed? My passcode is a joke. My ISP is the one set the passcode and told me not to change it. I am tempted to changed it just to see if my theory is correct. I suspect a neighbor piggybacking me. Any help or advice is appreciated. |
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#2 |
Just a Yellow Smiley.
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Texas
Device: K4, K5, fire, kobo, galaxy
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Look on the modem. There should be a set of numbers. Like 123.123.1.123 that is the modem's IP address.
Type in your browser http://then the IP numbers. There should be a device list. I think you can block if you don't recognize a device. |
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#3 |
Just a Yellow Smiley.
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Texas
Device: K4, K5, fire, kobo, galaxy
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Who is your ISP?
And WTF on not changing it? |
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#4 |
Treasure Seeker
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Update: I changed the passcode as it was ridiculous simple. My ISP can yell at me if they want. Still no change after rebooting. I think it's the ISP it maybe a bad bullet? That's Hubby's territory. He's the cable guy.
5mbps download. ![]() I still want to know if it's possible to have an unlisted device connected and if so how would one go find it? It's a NG brand router. I don't own it, it's rented. I have basic knowledge of the router and its settings. I don't see any misuse of bandwidth. The logs seem fairly clean. I'm writing down all the Mac addresses of my devices so I can keep track. I'm still suspicious to say the least. Sent from my XT1528 |
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#5 | |
Wizard
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Quote:
The easiest was to block this type of issue is to enable a "white list" (opposite of a black list) in your router's software. Add all of the MAC addresses for your equipment to this list. Any unlisted MAC address will then be blocked by the router. |
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#6 | |
Treasure Seeker
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Quote:
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#7 |
Treasure Seeker
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18 MAC addresses recorded and added. Whitelist is done and enabled! Thank you dwig!
K coming to you! |
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#8 |
Grand Sorcerer
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Location: Harrisburg outskirts
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[ Not necessarily related: My wifi gets slower than molasses too, and a company tech who visited to check the wiring told me it might be related to having both older and newer devices on the net. 102.11G as well as older (something like that?).
He suggested that when it got slow, I log in to the router, find a screen which says "Apply" and, without making any changes, press that Apply button anyway. It clears the router's buffers, and seems to be a little faster than a reset. And at least - I can do it remotely from the sofa, by logging in to the router, rather than getting up to power cycle the beast. This does seem to help, in my case. ] |
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#9 |
Treasure Seeker
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My modem and router are own by my ISP. They are not outdated like the router I actually own. I'm supposed to be getting 100mbps and usually do. AT&T was in the unit below for two days banging on stuff. I wonder if they messed with our box outside. This weekend I'm going to walk back there with hubby and look. One to make sure no one is stealing from the box and two make sure everything is fine. Because of Matthew I'll give it a week and if the speeds still suck I'll have to call for service. I'm paying $80 a month for my plan.
Sent from my XT1528 |
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#10 |
Grand Sorcerer
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Location: Harrisburg outskirts
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My modem and router are the levels that service tech said I should get (I already had them; compared them to his recommendations and they are fine). BUT my laptop is from 2011, and that older wifi. The one iPad is older too. The newer iPad shows the problem; the older devices feel fine. So old-vs-new may have something to it, in my case.
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#11 |
Connoisseur
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I doubt the router is the cause. Try hooking one of the computers directly to the modem. It will eliminate the router for testing. Go to DSLreports.com and run their speed test and diagnostic.
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#12 |
Treasure Seeker
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My desktop is Ethernet. I've already ran speed tests and they are the same.
I've changed DNS servers too. I was using Google's. This has been going on and off before Matthew but not as bad as it was yesterday. Sent from my XT1528 |
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#13 |
Treasure Seeker
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Does anyone here work for cable internet? Can someone please tell me when the router and modem are less than 5 feet from the coax wall connector why on earth would they use a 4 way splitter after two feet and another cable? Is it because the signal is too strong and must be split? The guy who did it was so not nice and just kept telling me while he sat on his duff on my floor the whole time how much he hates his job. That was last year.
If the splitter isn't needed I have plenty of cable and can make a new one and remove the splitter. Sent from my XT1528 |
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#14 |
Grand Sorcerer
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Location: Harrisburg outskirts
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I'm pretty sure "signal is too strong" is not even a thing.
Were they leaving a spare spigot for TV usage, or something? |
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#15 |
Grand Sorcerer
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For TV, and I assume it's the same for cable internet, we always say in the store that every connector (wall socket, splitter, extension connector, etc) is a point where the signal weakens and an extra point where problems can occur.
So, yes, I would remove the splitter and connect the router/modem directly to the cable without a splitter. We recently had cable internet installed and it wasn't working properly after a couple of weeks. We replaced the splitter the cable guy put in with a cheapo one we sell in our store and the problem was solved. |
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