DR1000 DIY: How to Change Your Battery

[MrWarper]

Here's an extremely simple way not to change your battery and keep experimenting with replacements as necessary -- well, I actually changed the almost exhaust original Varta battery of my battle DR but that's not the point.

I thought this very simple wiring of a two way switch would let me keep trying external batteries of higher capacities without the need to dremel out the internal ribbing and doing other nasty stuff before being sure they'd work. I took the pictures months ago but I just remembered I had forgotten to put them here. Even if the pics are bad I hope everything is clear enough. If you have questions, just ask me.

The switch is fixed to the internal base with a minimal drop of thermal glue so it can be torn off quite easily. The plug that connects it to the board socket was taken from that original battery (now dead). The socket where the substitute internal battery is plugged was taken from a dead board to minimize soldiering, etc. The external battery plug and socket are normal JIT stuff I bought at eBay ($2 for 20 or something like that).

As you can see in the second picture, now I have my double capacity (and exactly double size) on the out side, and I have fixed it with a bit of duct tape while I conduct my experiments. If for whatever reason I need to get back to the original one, I just flip the switch with my thumb nail and I'm "back to normal" in a blink. I'll report about my experiment results (mostly a failure) in a few more days in the other battery thread

[papaathome]

Hi,

Based on the photo of the VARTA battery I found a VARTA candidate for it.

What I assumed as the type was 'PLF503759.06.8087/33...'
Based on 503759 and looking for Lithium-Polymer batteries with about 1400 mAh I identified a strong candidate for it.

Have a look at the Varta specifications for LPP 503759 8HH

[whopper]

do you happen to still have the links or the photos?

I would like to change the battery to mine, but I don't want to break it.

[MrWarper]

links or photos of what?

I've tried a number of LiPo batteries between 1200 and 1400 mAh over the years, and never had a problem. As long as your replacement(s) are the right form factor (i.e. they fit in place), and you don't try cheap-ass Chinese batteries that hold 1/2 of their nominal charge or something like that, neither should you. However, if you want to be stricter, "Varta poliflex" still throws hundreds of hits in Google.

Don't forget you'll most likely have to keep the original battery plug and soldier it onto the new one's cables.

[whopper]

Originally Posted by MrWarper

links or photos of what?

I've tried a number of LiPo batteries between 1200 and 1400 mAh over the years, and never had a problem. As long as your replacement(s) are the right form factor (i.e. they fit in place), and you don't try cheap-ass Chinese batteries that hold 1/2 of their nominal charge or something like that, neither should you. However, if you want to be stricter, "Varta poliflex" still throws hundreds of hits in Google.

Don't forget you'll most likely have to keep the original battery plug and soldier it onto the new one's cables.

from the first post, of the instructions of how to disassemble the ereader. I can't see the images because looks like the mods deleted them

[Image violates guidelines for Size - MODERATOR]

[Jmirko]

Originally Posted by whopper

from the first post, of the instructions of how to disassemble the ereader. I can't see the images because looks like the mods deleted them

[Image violates guidelines for Size - MODERATOR]

These might be what you are looking for. I saved them when I replaced the batteries a few years ago.
For correct sequence, refer to the filenames.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[MrWarper]

Thank you for the images, but those will likely be deleted as well, as per the guidelines (see point #9), so I've prepared a new bunch with thumbnails and some directions that will hopefully stay here for as long as the forum is.

Here is how you insert a fine nail file or any similar object that will let you pry the plastic corner just a little bit so you can put the file in parallel to the border and then gently push it in:



As the file goes in like 2 cm., a plastic hook will give in from its position, where it holds the corner cap in place by resting against an inner wall of the cap. The cap is already removed here so you can see the hook:



When the cap is unhooked it can be slid a few millimetres along the reader border, and then removed by pulling to the side:



Both the latch and inner wall can be seen to both sides of the file here for your convenience so you can imagine how they come together when in place:



Repeat the process with the three remaining corners.

Now you want to make sure you removed the stylus and torx screws and start prying the case open from the edge where the ports are with the file, just a little bit, from its centre. After the grey case halves come apart a bit at the corners, it's time to pry from the sides. Each corner has several openings on the back side of the white plastic frame where you can insert a flat head screwdriver and very gently pry so the back case half starts coming apart from the corner up:



The plastic stubs between every two openings that hold the back case into place will likely get damaged as can be seen in image #5, or even broken off (they are very fragile). Don't worry, the case will still fit snugly anyway, and then there are the corner caps.

After you are done with opening the first lower corner, do the other lower one, then do the two upper ones gently, from the reader side centres to the corners, and when you are done do NOT pull the back case out, remove it like it is hinged to the front case on the upper side, so the latch that holds both together near the stylus holder won't break.

You can replace your battery now.

[whopper]

thank you both so much