Broken PE power socket - Page 2

HypnoticEyez · 02-17-2012, 02:48 AM

I had the same thing happen to me just tonight. Only problem is the tiny pin went down into the ac adapter while trying to retrieve it with tweezers. I have several ac adapters that will charge my PE but what do I use to replace the tiny pin to get a connection for charging? I have no confidence in my ability to replace and solder a new socket. My husband was the go to man for anything computer related. Unfortunately he passed away right before Christmas. I am now doing my best to ask questions and learn.

HypnoticEyez · 02-17-2012, 02:53 AM

I know this thread is several months old, but it can very well be the answer to my dilemma.

@fgruber do you know if the socket for the EE is the same for the PE?

Quote:

Originally Posted by fgruber

Hi

Just in case someone else need the info I fixed my EE by replacing the broken power socket by
101194 JACK,DC PWR,MALE,1.3mm

which I got from Jameco for 59 cents:
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...gDrillDownView

ivanjt · 02-17-2012, 03:32 PM

As far as I know the power sockets are the same for both the PE and EE.

If you don't feel confident to replace the socket yourself, maybe someone at the local technical college would do it for you.

HypnoticEyez · 02-17-2012, 03:35 PM

Great idea Ivanjt! There is a technical college less than a mile away from where I live. Thank you!

Gerrye · 12-21-2012, 12:33 PM

I just checked Jameco and the power socket is still on sale there... don't know how much shipping is, but it is available...

vva · 07-22-2014, 08:17 PM

So, this happened to me last week -- I usually charge my PE overnight, but one morning I realized it hadn't charged and found out it was bc the power socket's pin was missing....

Thank goodness for this forum!
But I think I screwed up in fixing mine.

I purchased the Jameco part as linked in the forum (still available)
and then it went downhill from there...

The hardest part of this whole operation was desoldering the socket and harness for removal. Re-installation of the new socket, etc. was easy.

Desoldering/REMOVAL:

I first used a desoldering pump, but it wasn't efficiently removing all the bits of solder around the socket and harness so I couldn't get them out (maybe cuz I'm a noob). I kept trying anyways and may have ended up burning the board by using the iron on it too much...this is probably where I screwed up, but I still had hope at the time...

Then I tried using a desoldering Iron from Radio Shack (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ue=Desoldering), but it only really worked if I first added fresh solder on the parts and then vacuumed it all off with the iron. This was def. handier than the pump itself.

But, the parts still wouldn't budge, which meant there was still some solder on them...

The easiest way I found to remove all the solder in this case, was with a desolding braid. I was able to finally release the socket and harness from the board and move forward. In the future, I think I would opt for the braid first, for tight spots.

REPLACEMENT:
replacing the old socket with a new one was easy after that. Once you pop out the old stuff, just pop in the new one. Secure with solder, and done.

If only it was that simple though.
While desoldering, some tiny part from the under side fell out, but I used some photos from this forum to figure out where it belonged (turns out, right behind the socket)...You see in the pic below, that little black piece has to sit on the two white rectangular areas...the question is, which way? Can someone check and tell me which way the writing on the black piece is facing?

Another thing, this is post-op after putting everything back in place. You can see I did some damage on the board. Do you think this is what's causing it to no longer work?

Idk...I've still got some hope that maybe if I put the black piece in right it'll work out fine, but idk...

ivanjt · 07-26-2014, 09:16 AM

Hi vva,

First congratulations for being prepared to try and fix things.

On the underside of the board there should be three distinct pins without any solder connecting them. If there is solder joining them then it should be removed or nothing will work and you may destroy your charger brick. The underside of the board can be cleaned up with a small stiff fibreglass bristle brush.

As far as I know the black block is a diode and is there to prevent problems if a reverse voltage is applied. It only allows current to flow in one direction (think of it as a non return valve). Exactly which way round it goes I am not sure. I am also not sure if it is essential.

First check that there is no solder connecting the three pins, then try powering up the unit. If it works the diode is not essential and is only there for safety. If it doesn't power up get back here and I will try and talk you through what to do next.

vva · 07-28-2014, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ivanjt

Hi vva,

First congratulations for being prepared to try and fix things.

On the underside of the board there should be three distinct pins without any solder connecting them. If there is solder joining them then it should be removed or nothing will work and you may destroy your charger brick. The underside of the board can be cleaned up with a small stiff fibreglass bristle brush. ...

Wow! That did the trick

Thanks so much for taking the time to give me your feedback!
Silly me was treating the solder like glue and thought if all the pins were soldered together, it would be stronger--nope! That's why it wasn't working earlier.
Followed your advice, removed the solder around the pins, and it worked!

Of course, of all the times I could've broken the power switch pin while tinkering with the device, the time it finally worked would be the time the power switch would get broken! I kept attemptress's warning in mind, and yet... haha...

My only concern now is that it blinked green for a while, then I moved it and it blinked red....I think it's just a matter of readjusting, but no matter how I moved the power, even if I disconnect and connect, it stays blinking red so I can't start it up....I will just keep an eye on it I guess.

THANKS again! Like, a really BIG thanks!

Gerrye · 08-01-2014, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gerrye

I just checked Jameco and the power socket is still on sale there... don't know how much shipping is, but it is available...

A little less than $9.00 with US shipping for 1 unit... most of the shipping is flat rate, so if you order in quantity the cost per socket is better...

I'm not brave enough to install one myself...

Good luck to those of you who are adventurous enough...

07-22-2014, 08:17 PM	#21
vva Junior Member Posts: 5 Karma: 10 Join Date: Jul 2014 Device: entourage pocket edge	Please Help So, this happened to me last week -- I usually charge my PE overnight, but one morning I realized it hadn't charged and found out it was bc the power socket's pin was missing.... Thank goodness for this forum! But I think I screwed up in fixing mine. I purchased the Jameco part as linked in the forum (still available) and then it went downhill from there... The hardest part of this whole operation was desoldering the socket and harness for removal. Re-installation of the new socket, etc. was easy. Desoldering/REMOVAL: I first used a desoldering pump, but it wasn't efficiently removing all the bits of solder around the socket and harness so I couldn't get them out (maybe cuz I'm a noob). I kept trying anyways and may have ended up burning the board by using the iron on it too much...this is probably where I screwed up, but I still had hope at the time... Then I tried using a desoldering Iron from Radio Shack (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ue=Desoldering), but it only really worked if I first added fresh solder on the parts and then vacuumed it all off with the iron. This was def. handier than the pump itself. But, the parts still wouldn't budge, which meant there was still some solder on them... The easiest way I found to remove all the solder in this case, was with a desolding braid. I was able to finally release the socket and harness from the board and move forward. In the future, I think I would opt for the braid first, for tight spots. REPLACEMENT: replacing the old socket with a new one was easy after that. Once you pop out the old stuff, just pop in the new one. Secure with solder, and done. If only it was that simple though. While desoldering, some tiny part from the under side fell out, but I used some photos from this forum to figure out where it belonged (turns out, right behind the socket)...You see in the pic below, that little black piece has to sit on the two white rectangular areas...the question is, which way? Can someone check and tell me which way the writing on the black piece is facing? Another thing, this is post-op after putting everything back in place. You can see I did some damage on the board. Do you think this is what's causing it to no longer work? Idk...I've still got some hope that maybe if I put the black piece in right it'll work out fine, but idk...

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Dropped 505, Now Power Switch Broken	JuniperPearl	Sony Reader	14	08-29-2010 02:46 PM
Headphone Socket	PeeBus	Fictionwise eBookwise	3	06-04-2009 11:55 AM

02-17-2012, 02:48 AM	#16
HypnoticEyez Junior Member Posts: 6 Karma: 10 Join Date: Jan 2012 Device: Pocket eDGe	I had the same thing happen to me just tonight. Only problem is the tiny pin went down into the ac adapter while trying to retrieve it with tweezers. I have several ac adapters that will charge my PE but what do I use to replace the tiny pin to get a connection for charging? I have no confidence in my ability to replace and solder a new socket. My husband was the go to man for anything computer related. Unfortunately he passed away right before Christmas. I am now doing my best to ask questions and learn.

02-17-2012, 03:32 PM	#18
ivanjt Guru Posts: 858 Karma: 1027478 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: South of France Device: kindle dx; eDGe	As far as I know the power sockets are the same for both the PE and EE. If you don't feel confident to replace the socket yourself, maybe someone at the local technical college would do it for you.

02-17-2012, 03:35 PM	#19
HypnoticEyez Junior Member Posts: 6 Karma: 10 Join Date: Jan 2012 Device: Pocket eDGe	Great idea Ivanjt! There is a technical college less than a mile away from where I live. Thank you!

12-21-2012, 12:33 PM	#20
Gerrye Zealot Posts: 146 Karma: 10 Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Leblon, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil Device: 1 EE,3 PEs,HP Pro Slate12.2,&Kindle Paperwhite,GalaxyTabPro12.2,Note 4	I just checked Jameco and the power socket is still on sale there... don't know how much shipping is, but it is available...

07-26-2014, 09:16 AM	#22
ivanjt Guru Posts: 858 Karma: 1027478 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: South of France Device: kindle dx; eDGe	Hi vva, First congratulations for being prepared to try and fix things. On the underside of the board there should be three distinct pins without any solder connecting them. If there is solder joining them then it should be removed or nothing will work and you may destroy your charger brick. The underside of the board can be cleaned up with a small stiff fibreglass bristle brush. As far as I know the black block is a diode and is there to prevent problems if a reverse voltage is applied. It only allows current to flow in one direction (think of it as a non return valve). Exactly which way round it goes I am not sure. I am also not sure if it is essential. First check that there is no solder connecting the three pins, then try powering up the unit. If it works the diode is not essential and is only there for safety. If it doesn't power up get back here and I will try and talk you through what to do next.